Brace yourselves, this is a Mega-Update!
Last we left off, the mighty brushless Etek/MarsElectric/Motenergy motor had its sensors replaced. It's now time to start putting everything together to start rotating these tires.
Looking at the Sevcon wiring diagram in the manual, it dawned on me how complicated this setup was going to be. I need a Main Throttle, a Regenerative Braking Throttle, a Key Switch for logic power, a Contactor to enable supplying motor power, Hall Sensor inputs, an Enable Switch, and CAN Bus inputs for programming the controller with the motor settings and desired configuration. Ultimately, I identified the exact pins I would require:
- 1: Key Switch In (Supplies logic power. There are three of these for convenience.)
- 2: CAN Termination - Short to pin 24 (CAN Bus)
- 3: Contactor 1 Return
- 4: Contactor 1 Supply
- 5: Encoder "U"
- 6: Key Switch In
- 10: Key Switch In
- 13: CAN High
- 15: Encoder Return
- 17: Encoder "V"
- 18: Forward "Enable" Switch
- 22: Main Throttle Wiper In
- 23: Braking Throttle Wiper In
- 24: CAN Low
- 26: Encoder V+
- 29: Encoder "W"
- 34: Main Throttle Supply
- 35: Braking Throttle Supply
The Key switch in the OFF position does not switch anything, nor does the Lock position, which locks the handlebars of the motorcycle to prevent theft. ON short two of the leads emerging from the switch, and P (Presumably "Park") shorts two others. It seems beefy enough to switch 72V at a low current. Looking further at the bike, I took to figuring out what parts of it to keep or throw away when it came to wiring and indication.
The original HUD for the bike has a speedometer, engine tachometer, left and right turn signal indicator lights, odometer, brake light, oil pressure light, and high beam indicator light. While somewhat useful, I plan on using the Cycle Analyst (More on that later) as my speedometer and odometer, I can see whether or not the turn signals, brake, or high beam, are activated, and an engine tachometer is not useful if I'm not going to be shifting gears.
This handlebar-mounted switchbox seems really useful, however. It sports a high-beam light switch (Low beams are always on on a motorcycle by default), Left and Right turn signal switches...
And a horn button, all in one nifty package. I'm keeping this!
I also received the Cycle Analyst High-Current edition and 0.5-Ohm shunt in the mail. It has a lot of great features, and will serve as my battery voltage indicator, current/power draw indicator, "Gas" (capacity remaining) indicator, Speedometer, and both trip and Universal Odometer. The Cycle Analyst even has more advanced features to limit current draw or maximum velocity (by putting it between your throttle and motor controller). Because I'm using such a smart motor controller that can already do this, I am foregoing these features.
The screen is HUGE, and the buttons feel great. It's backlit, waterproof, and runs off of battery voltage.
It comes with a magnet,which attaches to the bike wheel, and hall sensor which attaches to the front wheel fork. This, coupled with a programmable wheel size, allows the Cycle Analyst to accurately measure velocity and integrate it to act as an odometer.
The instruction manual is well put-together, featuring informative diagrams and instructions. There's even information on how to hack the device by adding throttle input-output, modifying throttle limit curves, hooking up to a computer for data logging, and even uploading your own firmware. But more on this later, there were more wiring things to test!
Like the lights! While I had the motorcycle inside, I decided to check every light I had. Thanks to one of our favorite awesome battery company's bricks, I verified that the signal lights work, but weren't blinking (yet).
Here's the rear light that's always on.
And here's the rear light + the brake light in tandem. Sweet.
Now, because the previous owner of this bike purchased it to remove the exhaust pipes and take the front headlight and turn signals lights. Because of that, he gave the front windshield/headlight/turn signals from another motorcycle. I didn't plan on putting the entire assembly on my bike (It was kinda broken, and I'm not sure it could even mount onto my bike) so I decided to take them all apart and test them. I'll mount them individually with my own adapter hardware if necessary.
It's a shame, it's a really nice front windshield assembly. But hey, onwards.
I found the part of the motorcycle that makes the turn signals blink! It's a relay-looking thing that probably operates on the same principle as thermally PWM-ing electrical stovetops. Wicked.
I decided to try and start fitting components to the bike while I had it indoors. They... kinda... fit? I'm gonna have to massage the bike a bit to fit those batteries. Chances of me fitting twice the amount of batteries are pretty slim...
One soldering iron was not enough to properly solder the terminals onto the wire that was about as thick as my thumb. Two irons were also barely enough. So i settled for a propane torch, which ended up working out quite nicely.
I dig the result.
I then acquired the second of the 12S8P A123 packs, and machined an aluminum bus bar to strap between the "+" of one battery and the "-" of another. This left me with ~72 Scary-Ass Volts of A123 goodness. The whole thing was like 30 lbs. I can't even fathom how heavy that would be in Lead Acid packs...
And here's everything needed to test the rig, almost ready to rock!
It will rock soon, I swear.
Just hold tight.